Home theater audio
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@Dashrender said in Home theater audio:
So hopped on Google,
First link Rocketfish wireless speaker connection.
Anyone have an opinion on Rocketfish stuff
It's a bestbuy store brand - enough said.
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Significant other shot down running wires?
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@travisdh1 said in Home theater audio:
Significant other shot down running wires?
He may have a really high ceiling in the living room (like my split level), making any wire runs impractical at best. But then again, I don't have a significant other to shoot down my projects either...
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Not all significant others disapprove. Mine helped me run the cables! (Helps to have another IT person in the house.)
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Keep in mind with the "wireless" ones your back speakers are then being amplified by the wireless receiver not the Home theater Amp. So you want something of quality and appropriate power for your speakers. This rocketfish one doesn't seem to list how much power it's providing.
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Manual shows 30Watts RMS into 4 ohms 10%THD.. Not much power..
also has a 20ms latency. -
@Jason said in Home theater audio:
Manual shows 30Watts RMS into 4 ohms 10%THD.. Not much power..
also has a 20ms latency.The listing said 25 Watts, and the review I read didn't indicate how much the latency was, but that it was there. My receiver can actually solve that latency issue I'm pretty sure, and for rear speaker, do I really need more than 25 Watts?
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@Dashrender said in Home theater audio:
@Jason said in Home theater audio:
Manual shows 30Watts RMS into 4 ohms 10%THD.. Not much power..
also has a 20ms latency.The listing said 25 Watts, and the review I read didn't indicate how much the latency was, but that it was there. My receiver can actually solve that latency issue I'm pretty sure, and for rear speaker, do I really need more than 25 Watts?
That would depend on what speakers/system you have.
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Running wires would require running them into the basement, no access to the space between the main floor and the second floor.
I could run them into the basement, along the unfinished ceiling, but getting above my kitchen cabinets would be the difficult part.
Oh.. there's a closet there - so I could come up into the closet, along the inside of the closet then through the wall to the space above the cabinets.
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@Jason said in Home theater audio:
@Dashrender said in Home theater audio:
@Jason said in Home theater audio:
Manual shows 30Watts RMS into 4 ohms 10%THD.. Not much power..
also has a 20ms latency.The listing said 25 Watts, and the review I read didn't indicate how much the latency was, but that it was there. My receiver can actually solve that latency issue I'm pretty sure, and for rear speaker, do I really need more than 25 Watts?
That would depend on what speakers/system you have.
I don't have the speakers yet, I have a Pioneer Pioneer VSX-1130-K 7.2-Channel AV Receiver
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@Dashrender said in Home theater audio:
Running wires would require running them into the basement, no access to the space between the main floor and the second floor.
There are ways..
http://www.amazon.com/Magnepull-XP1000-LC-Wire-Pulling-System/dp/B000YJB5WO
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Flexible-Drill-Bit-Kit-3-Piece-53721/203913339
No need to go in unfinished spaces. Also keep in mine if you cut a small access hole in drywall say 2x2 they are really easy to patch.
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@Jason said in Home theater audio:
@Dashrender said in Home theater audio:
Running wires would require running them into the basement, no access to the space between the main floor and the second floor.
There are ways..
http://www.amazon.com/Magnepull-XP1000-LC-Wire-Pulling-System/dp/B000YJB5WO
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Flexible-Drill-Bit-Kit-3-Piece-53721/203913339
No need to go in unfinished spaces. Also keep in mine if you cut a small access hole in drywall say 2x2 they are really easy to patch.
Upvotes due to wireless speakers being utter bollox every time I've tried them (admittedly not in several years)
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@Jason said in Home theater audio:
@Dashrender said in Home theater audio:
Running wires would require running them into the basement, no access to the space between the main floor and the second floor.
There are ways..
http://www.amazon.com/Magnepull-XP1000-LC-Wire-Pulling-System/dp/B000YJB5WO
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Flexible-Drill-Bit-Kit-3-Piece-53721/203913339
No need to go in unfinished spaces. Also keep in mine if you cut a small access hole in drywall say 2x2 they are really easy to patch.
This assumes that the joists run the correct direction in my ceiling to pull a wire, honest I have no clue, but, if they go the same direction as the ones in the basement, then that's a non starter.
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@Dashrender said in Home theater audio:
This assumes that the joists run the correct direction in my ceiling to pull a wire, honest I have no clue, but, if they go the same direction as the ones in the basement, then that's a non starter.
There are two tools there for a reason..
Also often times there is a spacer between ceiling joists and the drywall to allow for cabling without holes drilling into joists.
Normally ceiling joists and floor joists will be the same direction.
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@Jason said in Home theater audio:
@Dashrender said in Home theater audio:
This assumes that the joists run the correct direction in my ceiling to pull a wire, honest I have no clue, but, if they go the same direction as the ones in the basement, then that's a non starter.
There are two tools there for a reason..
Also often times there is a spacer between ceiling joists and the drywall to allow for cabling without holes drilling into joists.
Normally ceiling joists and floor joists will be the same direction.
I'm not sure how I'd get into the ceiling in the first place to see the spacer you're talking about.
As for the drill bit thing - that would be fine If I didn't need to go 25 feet with it. LOL
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I have a set of Insignia wireless speakers (Best Buy house brand as well) and agree with @MattSpeller they are horrible. Not much power which for regular viewing is OK but in a movie situation where we have the volume up a bit, yeah not good. SO this weekend got permission to run wire and drill very small ("i better not see them") wires for the surrounds. Fortunate for me I can go in the basement and its a straight shot don't have to go through any joists.
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@Dashrender said in Home theater audio:
@Jason said in Home theater audio:
Manual shows 30Watts RMS into 4 ohms 10%THD.. Not much power..
also has a 20ms latency.The listing said 25 Watts, and the review I read didn't indicate how much the latency was, but that it was there. My receiver can actually solve that latency issue I'm pretty sure, and for rear speaker, do I really need more than 25 Watts?
Yes.
Long Answer: 25 watts isn't enough to drive any sort of decent speaker unless you like them whisper quiet. My setup at home uses a Dennon 7.1 100w/channel amp and a 5.1 Andrew Jones signature series speaker set (audio snobs consider it the lowest price acceptable set). The 100w/channel really doesn't get very loud. The only way I can annoy my neighbors is with the self-powered sub.
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If you are looking for something that cheap, this is probably a bit better quality:
http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=10601 -
I wonder if you could use a cheap instrument wireless system and a small amp near the rear speakers?
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@RojoLoco said in Home theater audio:
I wonder if you could use a cheap instrument wireless system and a small amp near the rear speakers?
You'd need a speaker level to Line (or Instrument if the wireless system doesn't adjust) level converter you'll be converting the speaker level into heat..
Those speaker level to line level devices are usually for car audio and you will be disappointed with your results. If your amp can do passive unamplified outputs you can get around it though but that's not likely.
